SPECIAL MOLISE (3)

Beaches:  

Molise has 35 kms of coastline on the Adriatic sea, stretching from the Abruzzo beaches to the Gargano promontory in Apulia . Much of this is made up of long strips of sandy beaches bordered by farmland and woods of typical Mediterranean trees and shrubs. The unspoiled divers paradise of the Isole Tremiti, though officially part of Apulia, are most easily reached by boat from Termoli, Molises main beach holiday resort.

Termoli:

Termoli is a busy place in the summer when the population of 30,000 swells with visitors. Off season its a tranquil fishing port. Dont be deceived, however, by the neat little harbour with the bobbing boats at anchorage.  Termoli has one of the biggest fishing fleets in the Adriatic and these boats are out every night bringing in a fresh catch for the Italian and European market.

By far the best place to enjoy Termoli is to go to the old walled fishermens borgo tucked behind the recently restored medieval  Svevo fortress., overlooking the sea.  The Cathedral, considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Molise, flanks the main piazza, where you find a discreet selection of wine bars, food speciality shops, caffès and an Irish pub. The old borgo has been spruced up in recent years, the former fishermenâ residences are painted in bright colours and have flowers on their window sills  sure signs of a new lease of life as they are converted into second homes.

You wont be able to resist a visit to one of the old trabucchi. These are rough wooden structures built on stilts over the sea, reached from the shore by a wooden bridge and they are every lazy fishermen dream.  Wide nets stretched between poles are lowered into the water from the end of the trabucco and winched up when the resident fisherman feels its the right moment. However, the friendly fisherman we spoke to confessed that it is very difficult to catch fish so near the shore nowadays. In fact, he had a TV in his hut at the back and an armchair, and that was where we suspect he spent most of his day waiting for some stray shoal to happen by!  However, the Trabucco is considered one of the symbols of the Molise coast and it would be very sad indeed if they were to disappear.

Where to stay in Termoli:  

Without a doubt, the best choice must be the Residenza Sveva, located on the main square of the borgo, opposite the Cathedral.  The Residenza Sveva is a classic example of the Albergo Diffuso we spoke of in the previous instalment.  The beautifully appointed rooms are in converted old houses scattered around the historic centre, while the reception and breakfast room give onto the piazza. Owned and run by the Vincitorio family, the rooms abound in imaginative and tasteful touches. Many have beamed ceilings and antique furniture, stenciled wall decorations and private balconies. Between June and September, the hotel has its own beach club below the Castle, with sea view restaurant,  babysitting facilities and fitness centre.

For information:  Tel. 0039. 8075.706803  www.residenzasveva.com  

 

Posted on 13 Jan 2010 by Editor
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