ODD BISCUITS WITH A HISTORY

Italy is known for its vast variety of regional gastronomic specialities that range from cheeses to hams to sweets to pasta and meat and vegetable dishes. Lesser well known, but equally distinctive, is the humble biscuit, which can come in all kinds of forms and compositions.

At Castel San Pietro Romano, a small hill-top town above Palestrina (Lazio), celebrated for its imposing Temple of Fortune, you can sample the exclusive “Giglietto” (Little Lily) biscuit, which takes the form of the French fleur-de-lis. According to tradition it dates from the times of Louis XIV, the “Sun King”. The recipe (eggs, sugar, flour and lemon) is said to have been introduced from the French court by the noble Barberini family, who were the local overlords. The biscuits are produced by two local bakeries and have been awarded Slow Food listing.

Another unusual Lazio biscuit is exclusive to Frascati. This is the “Pupazza Francescana” biscuit, which comes in the form of a woman with three breasts. Its origin is unknown though it is believed to be an ancient fertility symbol. The ingredients are simple: flour, olive oil, honey and a flavouring of oranges. It has only been commercialized since the 1960s when it became promoted as the representation of a “Mammone”, the wet nurse who looked after babies when their mothers were busy with the grape harvest. Legend says she kept them quiet by giving them wine instead of milk – thus the three breasts: two for milk and the other for the wine. The “Pupazzo” is also listed in the Slow Food Arc of Taste.

Photos: Slow Food Movement

Info: www.slowfood.com

Posted on 31 May 2021 by Editor
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