ItalyUpdate

COCULLO SNAKE CULT AIMS FOR UNESCO LISTING

The unique Festival of St. Domenico at the mountain village of Cocullo (L'Aquila, Abruzzo) has applied for inclusion in the UNESCO Intangible Heritage list.

The Festival, which dates back to prehistoric times and was originally in honour of the Great Mother goddess Angizia whose cult was observed by the ancient Osco-Umbri peoples of central Italy, and was adapted in the Christian era to the figure of St. Domenico the Abbot, healer and protector against snake bites.

The Festival, which is unique in Italy, is held each year on the 1^st of May and involves the capture of dozens of snakes by expert “serpari” (snake catchers) from the surrounding mountains and hillsides. These are then draped alive over the statue of the saint and carried in procession all over the village. When the festival is over, they are released back into the wild.

Cocullo is situated at 870 asl. in the Apennines mountains and has a fixed population of only 300 inhabitants, who are, however, determined to keep their ancient traditions alive. The local authorities have the backing of institutions such as ANCI (National Association of Italian Municipalities) and are hopeful of achieving their objective in view of the recent election of nearby L'Aquila as Italian Capital of Culture 2026. 

M. STENHOUSE

Info: Tel. +39.0864.49117 comune.cocullo@katamail.com

MUSSOLINI'S SECRET BUNKER RE-OPENS

After extensive restoration work, Mussolini's underground air raid shelter and secret bunker, tunnelled under his official residence at Villa Torlonia, Rome, have been re-opened to the public. The shelter, accessed by a stairway leading down from the ballroom of the Casino Nobile, redesigned by Giuseppe Valadier between 1802-06, and now a museum, was converted from an existing cellar at the outset of WW2 and fitted with electric light, air filters, telephone lines and anti-gas sealed security doors.

After Rome was bombed in 1943, Mussolini considered the air raid shelter inadequate and commissioned the adjoining bunker, situated at a depth of 6.5m with 4m-thick reinforced concrete walls. However, he was destined never to make use of it as he was deposed before it was finished.

The new “bunker experience” has been set up with projections from newsreels of the period and special multi-medial effects, that lead visitors through the pre-War period of the Mussolini family residence to the outbreak of the War, with the simulation of a typical bombing attack as experienced in the shelters.

Pre-booked Guided Tours (maximum 20 participants): 060608

Info: www.museovillatorlonia.it villaparchistorici@comune.roma.it

NATURE WALKS AT POMPEII

The buried city of Pompeii has opened up new nature walks around its ancient walls. The 8.500 sqm green belt that links the archaeological site to the modern city of Pompei has been laid out as a woodland park, using the same varieties of plants and trees that would have been present in the time of the eruption, such as oaks, elms, plane trees, almonds, tamarisks and ilexes as well as appropriate flowering shrubs and plants with the intention of recreating a natural habitat for local birds and wildlife.

The trail leads from the Amphitheatre Gate, around the perimeter walls of the necropolis of Fondo Pacifico, through the recreated ancient lucus (Sacred Wood) and the Avenue of Almond Trees, to the Sannio Gate and back into the archaeological site at the Via dell'Abbondanza.

The Nature Trail is part of a tree planting project involving 7,000 native trees and shrubs, which have been introduced into the archaeological site over the past year and has involved not only the direction of the archaeological site but also local schools and social cooperatives assisting young people with difficulties, under the direction of the Arbolia Benefit Corporation, dedicated to creating new green areas in Italy and combatting global warming. The Pompeii project is the latest in a succession of 34 urban woodlands planted in 27 Italian towns and communities for a total of 75 million forest trees.

Info: www.arbolia.it

Second Miracle for Santissima Annunziata Basilica

Recently restored to its original glory, the “miraculous painting” of the Annunciation in the Basilica of the Santissima Annunziata (Holy Annunciation) in Florence can now be admired by Florentines and visitors alike. The fresco has always been a bit of a puzzle. According to legend the face of the Virgin was painted by divine hand and dated back to the 13^th century.

More recent research places it a century later but the mystery surrounding the work has persisted and the artist has never been identified. Michelangelo was also captivated by the face of Maria which he described thus: “it was not the art of the paintbrush that made the face of the Madonna, but truly something divine.”

The restoration work was particularly delicate. When restorer Anna Medora removed the frame she discovered that the fresco had been attacked by damp and mould. The recovery of the painting and the subsequent restoration of its original luminosity has been hailed as “a second miracle.”

The Basilica is one of the richest in Florence for treasures and works of art. Among the curiosities is the remains of a Roman organ that originally came from the Domus Aurea and belonged to the Emperor Nero.

Info: Tel. +055.266181

BYZANTINE ABBEY HAILS MILLENIUM

The thousand-year old Abbey of Grottaferrata (Lazio) is celebrating its foundation year with a programme of events, conferences and concerts of religious music throughout the coming months, starting on the 23^rd March with the “Sabat Mater” concert and a series of lectures on Dante's “Journey of Life” (“il Viaggio della Vita”), running until the 25^th May 2024.

The Abbey is an impressive fortified building, surrounded by defensive walls and a moat, harking back to the more turbulent times of its history. It was founded by Basilian monks from the south of Italy, guided by the legendary Saints Nilus and Bartholomew, who followed the Greek Byzantine ritual, which continues to be used today.

The Abbey is a treasure house of art, with the church of Santa Maria di Grottaferrata lavishly decorated with 12^th century mosaics and polychrome marble pavements, the Farnese Chapel frescoed by Domenichino in the original “grotto” (actually the remains of a cryptoporticus from a ruined Roman villa) where the first foundation stones were laid, and a “Madonna and Child with Saints Nilus and Bartholomew” by Antonio Carracci.

It also possesses a library with over 50,000 volumes, including some 1000 priceless ancient manuscripts, a museum of antiquities and a renowned School of Book Restoration.

The Abbey is open to the public, with guided tours and entrance to the museum on Saturdays and Sundays.

M. STENHOUSE

Info: Tel. +39.3409819736 www.abbaziasannilo.org.

PIENZA'S GUARDIAN OF THE VALLEY

Pienza (Tuscany) has inaugurated a new attraction for walkers and excursionists – “the Path of Art and the Soul.” This is a panoramic 2.5 km. nature trail scattered with art works created by 28 contemporary artists, including internationally famous sculptors like Gio Pomodoro, Joe Tilsen, Mino Trafeli, Pietro Cascella. Justin Peyser, Jean-Paul Phillipe and others.

The collection of sculptures by these artists has been donated by the FUR Foundation, a non-profit institution set up by Swiss millionaire Urs Rechsteiner with seat at Montepulciano (Siena).

The “Guardian of the Valley”, a towering 4m-high sculpture seated on a rock, is destined to become the symbol of the art trail. Created by the artist Antonio Borrelli for the Corto Circuito scenographic laboratory, the Guardian gazes over the valley below, the personification of the “super-hero” protector of all who pass along the route.

Info: Tel. +39.0578.740005 info@turismo@comune.pienza.si.it

PARADISE IN ANCIENT FLORENTINE PHARMACY

Full immersion in a floral fantasy in the ancient Dominican herbal dispensary of Santa Maria Novella in Florence where artist Felice Limosani has created a unique flowery bower inside the venerable laboratory set up by the friars some eight centuries ago.

“Blooming in Paradise” is the title chosen by the artist, a world leader in creative digital technology. The installation includes not only floating blossoms on walls and floors but also music and fragrances to enhance the experience. The exhibition runs until the 7^th April 2024, and meanwhile the Pharmacy carries on with its normal business in the adjoining rooms,

The venerable Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica (Perfume and Pharmaceutical Laboratory) of Santa Maria Novella, founded by Dominican friars in 1221, is a major tourist attraction in Florence, especially with Korean and Japanese visitors since the Pharmacy was taken over in 2020 by the major Italian holding Italmobiliare, which specializes in supporting and promoting “Made in Italy” brands.

The Farmacia is a work of art in its own right, with frescoes attributed to Marioto di Nardo (died 1424) and with décor and furnishing carefully restored in the style of the 14^th century.

It sells exclusive herbal cures, natural beauty products and liqueurs, some using the original traditional recipes elaborated by the friars.

1000. STENHOUSE

Info: +39.055.216276 info@santamarianovella1221

ROYAL PALACE OF CASERTA OPENS GRAN GALLERIA

The celebrations in honour of the great 18^th century architect Luigi Vanvitelli, who designed and supervised much of the building of the Royal Palace of Caserta (Campania) culminated with the opening of a vast new exposition space in the north west wing of the palace, previously closed to visitors. For almost a century the area had been occupied by the training school of the Italian Air Force (Scuola Specialisti dell'Aeronautica Militare) which has now moved to new premises near the coast.

The wing adds an extra 3,000 sqm to the already vast museum space in the Royal Palace, a listed UNESCO world heritage site since 1997, and the one-time residence of the Bourbon kings of Naples and Spain. The newly acquired premises will contain a conference hall, cultural meeting rooms and a cafeteria, while the Gran Galleria area has been adapted to host temporary exhibitions. Its inaugural exposition, entitled “Visioni” focusses on aspects of the Vanvitelli architectural vision by photographers Luciano D'Inverno and Luciano Romano, will run until the 15^th July 2024.

Info: Tel. +39.0823.448084 https://reggiadicaserta.cultura.gov.it

TODI: FULL IMMERSION FESTIVAL IN ANCIENT HISTORY

This year's Umbria Antica Festival (formerly known as “Festival dell'Umbria Antica”, is centred in the perfectly preserved medieval town of Todi and is poetically entitled: “Il Cuore Verde d'Italia batte al ritmo della Storia” (“The Green Heart of Italy beats to the rhythm of History”), following “Dove e Nata la Nostra Storia” (“Where our History Began”) and “Uomini e Dei” (“Men and Gods”), the themes of the two previous editions.

The packed three-day programme (15^th - 17^th March 2024) offers a full immersion experience in the life and customs of the ancient peoples who once inhabited the Italian peninsula, their heritage and their lasting influence, as well as the processes of integration brought about by the Roman conquest. Lectures will be held in the Council Chamber of the 13^th century Palazzo del Capitano, Todi and will be conducted by a group of Italy's most prestigious experts in the historical and archaeological fields.

1000. STENHOUSE

For full programme: www.festivalumbriantica.it info@festivalumbriantica.it