ItalyUpdate

Special for Cinephiles! The National Museum Salce Collection in Treviso (Veneto) is putting on a special show of historic cinema posters as a tribute to the award-winning master of this art, Renato Casaro.

Casaro is considered to be the last great maestro in this field. His eye-catching works span several generations and document the evolving world of cinema and the tastes of the public over the years. Some of his most memorable works include the celebrated posters for”Amadeus”, “Tea in the Desert”, “The Last Emperor” and the Sean Connery 007 series.

A selection of some 300 works are on show in three venues: the new National Museum Salce Collection in the Church of Santa Margherita, the San Gaetano Complex and the Civic Museum of Santa Caterina. They cover Italian and international films that illustrated landmark masterpieces by the top directors of the 20^th century.

The exhibition: “Renato Casaro The Last Cinema Poster Creator – Treviso-Rome-Hollywood” runs until the end of December 2021.

Info: Tel, +39.0422591936 www.collezionesalce.beniculturali.it

www.museicivicitreviso.it

As part of the celebrations for the 700^th anniversary of the death of Italy's greatest poet, Dante Alighiere, Ferrovie dello Stato (State Railways) is launching a series of vintage steam train trips through the Apennines along the historic Faetina line between Florence and Ravenna, where Dante has his tomb.

The trains run every weekend from July 3rd- October 10^th 2021(except the 7-8 August when the line will be closed for maintenance), leaving from Santa Maria Novella station in Florence at 9 am and arriving at Ravenna late morning. There will be four stops on route at the small country stations of Borgo San Lorenzo, Marradi, Brisighella and Faenza, to allow passengers who wish to get off and explore. The return journey from Ravenna to Florence is programmed for late afternoon.

Passenger numbers will be restricted to half capacity due to COVID restrictions.

Info: www.ferrovie.info

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• Title of the Guide to the Monuments published by the Archeoclub D'Italia: author Antonio Ribezzo, President of the Ferentino branch

  The town of Ferentino (Lazio) is spearheading an ambitious project to promote tourism to the area, centred around the excavation and restoration of the 2^nd century AD Roman Theatre, which lies in the heart of the citadel near the Casamari Gate in the old city walls. Mayor Antonio Pompeo has announced with satisfaction that the Ferentino project has been selected against stiff competition to receive a 1.5 million euro grant from the Italian Ministry of Culture in order to carry out the necessary work. At the moment, the theatre is only partially visible. When it was first discovered a century ago, it lay buried under an orchard and a house had been constructed over the stage and backstage area. Archeologists and restorers estimate that it will take a couple of years to give the fully restored 54m-diameter theatre back to the town, transformed into a safe and suitable venue for theatrical and musical events.

Ferentino has a very ancient history, dating back to pre-Roman times, and is one of the five so-called “Cities of Saturn” that dominate the region known as “Ciociaria” after the typical footwear once worn by the population.

Saturn, originally under the form of Cronos, was the god of agriculture and according to legend the period of his reign was the mythical “Golden Age” before the domineering Jove/Jupiter took over.

Like its sister cities - Anagni, Alatri, Arpino and Atina – all beginning with an “A” (Ferentino's original name was Antino) in the cluster of Saturn, Ferentino was originally built by an ancient population known as the Hernicians, constructors of the massive “Cyclopic” walls that stretch for 2.50 km and encircle the entire historic centre.

These walls are built of colossal stone blocks, so enormous that it was originally believed they were constructed by giants, or Cyclops, rather than men. Seven monumental gates give access into the town, with the Porta Casamari opening onto the old consular road towards the south. On the hillside under the gate there is a unique funeral monument dating from the 2^nd century AD. It is inscribed with the last will and testament of the Roman dignitary Aulus Quintillius Prisco, and states that he bequeaths his lands and property to the citizens of Ferentino, with the specification that every five year, on his birthday, the 9^th May, a portion of the income derived, divided between cash, mead, bread and nuts, should be bestowed on the townspeople. Apparently his wishes were followed up till recent times.

Ferentino boasts the largest number of monuments and Roman epigraphs of the area, with a collection of over 150 Latin inscriptions relating to eminent citizens of the Roman era. A living town, it has evolved over the centuries, without losing its original imprint within the city walls. Some urbanistic disasters have been avoided, such as the replacement of the Romanic 11^th century Cathedral on the Acropolis dedicated to the martyred brothers saints John and Paul, which is one of the town's most fascinating medieval churches, with a beautiful 12^th -13^th century cosmatesque pavement in coloured marbles set in intricate mosaic patterns. During the 19^th century the local bishop, Bernardo Maria Tirabassi, decided to do away with the “old” church and build a bigger and more prestigious one on the site. Fate, however, intervened. The bishop died in 1865, funds ran out and Rome was conquered by Garibaldi in 1870, greatly reducing the power of the Popes. All that Bishop Tirabassi managed to do was build the monumental porch that was to have been the entrance to the grand new church. The columns and the empty arch have been left, towering like follies on the western side of the Duomo Square.

Text & Photos by MARGARET STENHOUSE

Info: www.archeoclubitalia.org ufficiosindaco@comune.ferentino.fr.it

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n collaboration with the annual Medieval Festival (Gubbio – 22-26 September 2021), the venerable town of Poppi (Umbria) is staging a historical re-enactment of the Battle of Campaldino at the Castle of Count Guidi on the 11^th, 12^th and 13^th June 2021. The battle was fought on the 11^th June 1289 between the Florentine Guelphs and their allies against the Ghibellines of Arezzo and Pisa. 24 year-old Dante Alighiere also fought in the battle on the side of the Guelphs. The Guelphs won after a particularly bloody conflict in which a calculated 1,700 Ghibellines were slaughtered. By contrast, the triumphant Guelph faction lost only 300 men. Dante refers to the battle, which established the leadership of Florence over the rival Tuscan towns, in several passages of his “Inferno” and “Purgatorio”.

The Festival has therefore been named “L'Inferno a Campaldino” though visitors need not fear. Only fake blood will be shed at the event, which also marks the inauguration of the new Poppi Museum, dedicated to the historic battle.

For those unfamiliar with the quirks of Italian medieval history, the Guelphs supported the papacy in the long political struggle for dominance against the Holy Roman Empire, the followers of which were known as the Ghibellines.

M.STENHOUSE

Info: Tel. +39.0575 5021 www.festivaldelmedievo.it

The historic Calabrian town of Vibo Valentia has won the title of Italian “Capitale del Libro” (Capital of Books) for 2021. Following the lines of the UNESCO World Book Day, the prize was introduced a couple of years go by Italian Culture Minister Dario Franceschini with view to sustaining literature, libraries and book events and to promote reading habits among the general public.

Vibo Valentia competed against 23 other towns and came through tops thanks also to its “Festival Leggere e Scrivere” (Festival of Reading and Writing) literary event, running since 2012. The Festival annually attracts thousands and is run under the artistic direction of Gilberto Floriano, who created the local Libraries System – an established focal cultural point throughout the region.

The Capital of Books 20021 award carries with it a government grant of 500,000 euro towards investments in local culture.

Last year's prize went to Chiari in the Province of Brescia, one of the worst hit spots in the Covid epidemic.

Info: www.italia.it/vibovalentia

Italy is known for its vast variety of regional gastronomic specialities that range from cheeses to hams to sweets to pasta and meat and vegetable dishes. Lesser well known, but equally distinctive, is the humble biscuit, which can come in all kinds of forms and compositions.

At Castel San Pietro Romano, a small hill-top town above Palestrina (Lazio), celebrated for its imposing Temple of Fortune, you can sample the exclusive “Giglietto” (Little Lily) biscuit, which takes the form of the French fleur-de-lis. According to tradition it dates from the times of Louis XIV, the “Sun King”. The recipe (eggs, sugar, flour and lemon) is said to have been introduced from the French court by the noble Barberini family, who were the local overlords. The biscuits are produced by two local bakeries and have been awarded Slow Food listing.

Another unusual Lazio biscuit is exclusive to Frascati. This is the “Pupazza Francescana” biscuit, which comes in the form of a woman with three breasts. Its origin is unknown though it is believed to be an ancient fertility symbol. The ingredients are simple: flour, olive oil, honey and a flavouring of oranges. It has only been commercialized since the 1960s when it became promoted as the representation of a “Mammone”, the wet nurse who looked after babies when their mothers were busy with the grape harvest. Legend says she kept them quiet by giving them wine instead of milk – thus the three breasts: two for milk and the other for the wine. The “Pupazzo” is also listed in the Slow Food Arc of Taste.

Photos: Slow Food Movement

Info: www.slowfood.com

One of the loveliest things to do in Rome in May is to visit the Roseto Communale (the Public Rose Garden), overlooking the Circo Massimo. The 2.5 acre garden contains over 1,100 varieties of roses and is only open for the spring period when the blooms are at their best.

Every year the garden stages the Premio Roma International Competition for new varieties of roses submitted by growers from all over the world. This year marked the 76^th edition, with 88 roses competing for the prestigious award, with the historic French grower Meilland sweeping the board in three categories out of four.

The Prize was the brainchild of American-born Countess Mary Gailey Senni, who supervised every phase of the creation of the Roseto and promoted it abroad. The competition was held regularly until 1940, when it was suspended due to the War. Sadly, the garden was destroyed during the conflict and the Premio Roma was only resumed in 1951 in the new part of the garden, which had been the old Jewish cemetery, subsequently transferred to Rome's main cemetery in Verano.

Guided tours can be arranged on request.

Photos by MSR

Info: Tel. +39.06.574.6810 rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it

Two coastal resorts north of Rome are locked in a controversy in which both claim to be the place where Michaelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio, breathed his last.

Ladispoli, a popular seaside town on the Via Aurelia 57 kms north of Rome is insisting that tradition, which names the more fashionable Porta Ercole some 95 kms further north as the bird flies, is mistaken.

Caravaggio is known to have disembarked on the beach at the Castle Orsini-Odescalchi, Palo Laziale near Ladispoli in 1610, on his way from Naples to Rome, where he hoped to obtain a papal pardon for a murder he had committed a few years earlier. He was bringing three paintings with which he hoped to mollify Paul V and have his death sentence lifted,

Due to a case of mistaken identity, he was arrested by the castle guards and imprisoned, while the paintings, which had remained on the boat, were taken back to Naples. He apparently bribed his way out of the Palo castle but the rest of the story is shrouded in mystery. Caravaggio was a sick man, suffering from fever and possible an infected sword wound. The town of Ladispoli argues that in these conditions he could not have managed the long trek to Porta Ercole and that he must have died on the beach somewhere. His burial place has never been found.

To settle their claim, the town of Ladispoli has now installed a commemorative bronze bust of the artist, by sculptor Sergio Bonafaccia, at a prominent spot on the beach promenade of Marina di Palo, recently unveiled by Mayor Alessandro Grando. In addition, the town of Ladispoli is launching a special cultural programme dedicated to Caravaggio throughout June.

Info: www.terzobinario.it www.comunediladispoli.it

Francesco Sirano, director of Herculaneum, the Roman city wiped out along with Pompeii in the volcanic eruption of 79AD, has announced the return of its popular Close-Up Cantiere (work site) Tours, which give visitors the opportunity to watch archaeologists, architects and restorers at work in the archaeological site.

The tours take place on Friday mornings at 11 and 11.30 and visitors can participate by booking at the Close-up Cantiere desk at the visitor centre at least 15 minutes beforehand. The work-in-progress tours are included in the price of the entrance ticket to the remains of the ancient Roman city

At the moment it is possible to see experts working on the restoration of mosaics at the Casa della Gemma (Jewel), the Casa dei Cervi (Stags), the Casa di Pilus Granianus and the Casa del Rilievo di Telefo (Telephus Reliefs). In addition, other ongoing restoration work can be seen at the House of the Colonnnato Tuscanico (Tuscan Colonnade), the House of the Atrio a Mosaic (Mosaic at the Entrance), the House of the Mobilio Carbonizzato (Carbonized Furniture) and the House of Apollo Citaredo (Apollo with his Lyre).

The idea behind the tours, says Sirano, is to make the public more aware of conservation and what is involved in restoration. Herculaneum is one of the earliest and most successful conservation projects. Culture Minister Dario Franceschini recently celebrated the 20th anniversary of the collaboration between a private company - the Packard Humanities Institute and the Archaeological Park of Herculaneum - which set the stage for the 2014 introduction of the ArtBonus tax incentive project to encourage the active participation of private sponsors in the restoration and upkeep of Italy's immense cultural heritage.

Text & Photos by M. Stenhouse

Info: Tel. +39.081.7777008 http://ercolano.beniculturali.it

“Angels Unawares”, the massive bronze sculpture by Canadian artist Timothy Schmalz is a permanent fixture in St. Peter's Square, attracting the admiration and attention of visitors. The 6 metre-long monumental work contains 140 figures crammed into a boat and represents the plight of refugees, immigrants and the oppressed, all in search of a better life. The figures portrayed include the Holy Family fleeing to Egypt, African slaves, Native Americans, Jews and asylum seekers escaping from wars in North Africa and Asia. The work was inaugurated in 2019 in the presence of Pope Francis to mark the 105^th World Day for Refugees.

The replica of another work by Schmalz – the controversial “Homeless Jesus” can also be seen outside the Office of Papal Charities in Via della Conciliazione leading up to St. Peter's. The life-size bronze of a shrouded figure, lying on a bench with only his pierced feet visible, caused a scandal when it was first displayed at the University of Toronto in 2013 as many Catholics believed that it was a disrespectful representation of Christ. It is now one of the most popular works of contemporary religious art with replicas displayed in over 100 cities all over the world.

Schmalz is at present working on another religious subject, “When I was Sick” that refers to the Covid epidemic, financed by donations given to the Mercy Health Foundation of Youngstown, Ohio, USA, and from its staff. The sculpture is part of a series evoking traditional scriptural texts.

The sculpture, which should be inaugurated in September 2021 will contain a time capsule to be opened March 11 2120, 100 years from the date when the World Health Organization officially declared the coronavirus pandemic.

Text & photo by MSR

Info: www.sculpturebytps.com